Friday, July 17, 2015

Friday July 17th, Stockholm

     Today is our last day in Sweden. We return tomorrow to the States.  I didn't sleep well last night so I made it a short day of sightseeing.  We decided to give the Vasa Museum another try, getting there earlier in the morning.  Our plan was successful, as we were able to walk right in.

     The Vasa was a wooden sailing ship built in the 1620s. On her maiden voyage in 1628 she traveled about one mile before she keeled over.  The King wanted a tall, majestic warship to intimidate the enemies of Sweden so it was built in a way making it top heavy.  It also was too rounded on the bottom, and there wasn't enough ballast, and the ballast that was used was the wrong shape.  The ship began to list, and water entered the openings where the cannons pointed out, filling the ship with water.

     In the 1950s, a man believed he knew where the Vasa was located, determined he was correct, and the effort was underway to raise the Vasa from the bottom of the harbor.  This was done in 1961.  The Baltic Sea is a mixture of salt water and fresh water, and this environment was perfect for preserving the Vasa as she was on the day she sank.  Amazingly the Vasa on display is 98% original.  Karl remembers seeing the Vasa when he lived here as a boy, but it wasn't yet in a nice museum.
  I don't believe I've complained about anything yet in this blog, and maybe it's because I'm sleep deprived, but here's some negativity.  The Vasa is an amazing ship that has to be seen to be appreciated.  The informative displays setting the Vasa in its political and social contexts were also very well done, as was the introductory film.  Here's my complaint--the Vasa Museum is too crowded to be enjoyable.  Guided tours were offered by museum staff twice an hour in multiple languages.  Karl and I thought the tour would be around the outside of the ship, pointing things out, etc., so we spent our time waiting for the tour start time by looking at the displays.  Well, the tour, for the most part, ran around looking at the displays! The museum was so crowded that we lost the tour guide as we went upstairs.  We (and several other visitors in our group--there was an elderly couple who had trouble with the stairs. We were behind them.) zigged, and our guide (and the rest of the group) zagged.  We found him again, but the elderly couple and others didn't.  In addition to the museum staff giving tours, there were dozens of organized tour groups getting a tour from their tour guide.  At one point our guide was trying to talk over a guide speaking Italian and discussing the same display.   Another time, a tour group marched right through our group, and snippy words were exchanged between our guide and theirs.  It was just unpleasant, whether in the tour or on our own.  So ends my rant.

     I'd read where the restaurant at the Vasa Museum was good, so we decided to give it a try.  We'd been at the museum for 2 hours and felt like we'd seen everything we wanted to see (and were tired of being jostled about).  Well, I have to say that this was probably the best food I've had in Stockholm! I meant to take a photo of its description on the menu board, but I forgot.  The translation on the board said something about fried pork, boiled potatoes, and creamed stalk cabbage.  I have no idea what stalk cabbage is, but it tasted like regular cabbage and seemed pretty much like regular cabbage.  And the fried pork was thick sliced bacon.  So there you have it, bacon, potatoes, and cabbage in a cream sauce.  Oh, and the ubiquitous lingonberries...Yummy!

     So, the Vasa exhibit on a 5 point scale... 5 points.  The Vasa Museum experience....2 points.   The Vasa Museum fried pork lunch....5 points.

     After our post-lunch coffees, Karl and I decided to go our separate ways--just for the afternoon!  We rode the tram back to Nybroplan and then walked to the Östermalmstorg subway station.  He headed northeast on line 14, and I headed southwest on line 13.  Karl went to Lidingö to find another place they lived in the 1970s, and I headed back to the apartment to rest and begin packing for our return journey.

     Karl got back to the apartment around 4:30 and we worked on our projects (packing and computing) until about 6:00 when we walked around a couple of corners to Pizzeria Italia, where we shared a Hawaiian pizza (I know, it's my 3rd one in 2 weeks).    They had an Indiana pizza, that had shrimp, pineapple, banana, and curry.  We decided that was maybe Indian and not Indiana!   This was the first time in our trip that we encountered a language barrier.  The young man at the pizza restaurant did not speak English, and I'd guess that he's not a native Swedish speaker either, but with our rudimentary Swedish and sign language we managed to get the pizza, waters, and salad (the vinegar based slaw) ordered.  And speaking of salad, the salad bar at lunch contained mixed greens with a vinaigrette...AND they offered ice for the drinking water.

     A stop at the grocery for a packaged ice cream treat was next on our list, then back to the apartment where Karl is now packing and I'm blogging.

     Final thoughts on Sweden.  I really like it here and would live here if I could.  The people are happy and content, polite and helpful.  People take one look at us and speak English.  (But if I lived here I'd learn Swedish.) The food has been good.  I love this neighborhood.  Oh, Maude told us about an app that you can use to change the colors on the Telefonplan tower.  It's called Colour by numbers.  I can't see the tower from the apartment and it won't be dark when I go to bed, so maybe next time...

     So I will say Hej då! to Sweden, but I know I'll be back.  I want Ellen and Caroline to see the country of their ancestors (they're 1/4 Swedish), and I want to see more of this beautiful country.

     Today's photos are here.  Riina and Karl have some more photos for me so I will post them as soon as possible.

Thursday, July 16, 2015

Thursday July 16th, Stockholm

     Well today was a day I've been excited about for pilgrimage to the ABBA Museum.   Many thanks to Karl for putting up with my enthusiasm about the museum.  Like I mentioned in an earlier post, the ABBA Museum is located on Djurgårten.  Again we took the subway and tram to get there.  It opened at 10:00 and we got there at 10:04.  We waited for about 25 minutes to buy tickets.  We could've booked online ahead of time for a certain time slot but wanted some flexibility. While waiting, we asked another visitor to take our photo with our faces in cut outs of Björn and Agnetha. Everyone was having fun passing their cameras to others in line.
    We opted to pay extra for the audio tour, and I think it was worth it.  The tour starts down two flights of stairs. The first thing we saw at the bottom of the stairs was the lit up ABBA letters...another photo op.   We then watched a 4-minute montage then went into the first room of exhibits.  Each ABBA member told about their early life and how their careers got started.  The next area told about how they got together and won Eurovision in 1974.  The exhibit continued with their stardom, personal lives, and the break up.  We saw a mock up of their recording studio, a dressing room, several of their costumes, and their albums, gold records and other awards. Along the way there were fun things like a telephone.  If it rings, you should answer it because it will be one of ABBA calling!  There was a piano there hooked up to Benny's piano at home.  If he starts playing at home, the piano in the museum will play, too! (Neither of these things happened when we were in those rooms). There are more interactive things to do, which I would've done if I'd been with one or both of my daughters.  We can get a little crazy playing ABBA Singstar on the PlayStation!  There was a recording booth, where you could do karaoke and it could be recorded for you.  We also saw a stage where you could be the 5th member of ABBA and sing with hologram images.  In another place you could just dance and be shown on a screen.

     After the ABBA portion of the museum you come to the Swedish Music Hall of Fame.  It seemed well done, but aside from ABBA and Roxette we didn't know any Swedish musicians.  I think we were in the museum for about an hour and a half.  I spent 945 kroner in the gift shop!

     Our next stop was the Vasa Museum.  The line for tickets was probably 50 yards long and wasn't moving.   We decided to try again tomorrow, earlier in the morning.  We headed to my favorite place in Stockholm, Gamla Stan.  We went to the Royal Armory and looked at clothing, armor, and weapons of the Swedish Royal family.

     By this time it was 1:30 and Karl and I wanted some lunch.  We had the fixed price lunch at a little restaurant.  We both had meatballs today.  After lunch we went back to the Royal Palace and toured the State Apartments.  They were much fancier than the rooms at Drottningholm Palace.  While there was still some Trompe l'oeil, there was also a lot of real marble and carvings.  This Royal Palace was built in the 1700s.  All the kings since that time lived there until the current King Carl XVI Gustav.  He lives at Drottningholm but his offices are at the Royal Palace.   The Royal Palace is undergoing a 20 year restoration on the exterior.

     When we were done touring the Palace, we did a little shopping as we walked to the Gamla Stan subway station.  We were back at the apartment by 4:15.  The skies were threatening and Karl seems to be catching a cold.  We did dash out between rains to pick up Indian food from a food truck at Telefonplan.

     Photos from the ABBA Museum and the rest of the day are here.


Wednesday July 15, Stockholm

     It took me a while to get my head wrapped around the money here in Sweden.  In other countries I've been in, there's a large unit, like our dollar, and a smaller unit, like cents.  Here there are only kroner.  Looking in my wallet, I have coins of 1 kroner (silver and the size of a quarter), 5 kroner (silver and bigger than a quarter), 10 kroner (gold and smaller than the 1 kroner).    I have bills of 20 kroner, 50 kroner, 100 kroner, and 500 kroner. The larger the denomination, the larger the size of the bill.  I owed 40 kroner and the woman at the cash register asked me if I had any coins. I gave her a 20 kroner bill and then I showed her the coins I had and she gladly took two of my 10 kroner coins.  Until then I didn't realize that each 10 coin was half of a 20 bill.  I think I've got the hang of it now.  There are about 8 kroner to one U.S. dollar, so 100 kroner equals about 12 USD.

     Today we went to Skansen.  It's Conner Prairie on steroids, if you're in the Indianapolis area.  Otherwise, it's a living history museum with old buildings and people dressed in period costumes acting as though they are in that time period.  The neat thing about Skansen is that it was founded back in 1891 to show what life was like in different areas of Sweden before the industrial age.  There's also a zoo and an aquarium.  We looked at a few of the animals, but didn't really visit the zoo or aquarium.

     Skansen is on a large island called Djurgården .  It was once the royal hunting grounds but now it is home to several tourist attractions including the Vasa museum and the ABBA museum (more on them in a later post), an amusement park, walking paths, and several other museums.  We got there using a tram after we got off the subway.    We spent about 2 1/2 hours at Skansen then ate lunch at a restaurant across the street.  One nice thing about Stockholm is that many restaurants in the touristy areas have a special fixed price lunch menu.  For about 100 kroner (12 USD) you can get a main course with sides, salad bar (Scandinavian style--see an earlier post), bread, coffee/tea/water/reddish-pink juice.  We like to do this then eat a lighter dinner.  (It would be hard to find a dinner for 100 kroner...well, maybe a kebab plate).  And each restaurant has a varied selection offered at that price.  This restaurant offered a pork dish, Swedish meatballs, lasagna, pasta/pesto, a fish dish.  Karl and I both had the pork.

     After lunch we took a boat tour that was included with our Stockholm Card.  I was so sleepy and I couldn't stay awake.  No photos.  We then walked back to Gamla Stan and had carrot cake and coffees.  Our next stop was Storkyrkan, or Stockholm Cathedral.  This church was so beautiful! It has stood at its current size since the 15th century but must of the current interior is from the late 17th and early 18th centuries.

     Our last stop was the area around the Royal Palace again and the Medieval Museum.  The entrance is located under a bridge near the Royal Palace.  This museum was a gem.  Nice exhibits and descriptions in Swedish and English.  As we were walking on Drottninggaten toward T-Centralen, it started raining again.

     Today's photos are here.

Tuesday July 14, Stockholm and Drottningholm Palace

     Today we finally met Karl's cousin, Lars.  They showed up at the apartment around 11:30 a.m., having driven from Blidö.  It was nice to have a morning to sleep in and get a slow start.  Lars and Maude are Swedish but currently live in Washington, D.C.  We'd met Maude last November at their home in Washington but Lars had been called out of town on business at that time.  Maude and I can definitely see a family resemblance.

     We took the subway to central Stockholm and walked to the boat to Drottningholm Palace .  The trip takes about an hour. The city of Stockholm is spread out among 14 islands so water transportation is important to the residents and tourists. Drottningholm Palace is located outside the city to the west.

     Drottningholm Palace is currently the home of the Swedish royal family. They were at their summer home south of Stockholm celebrating the 38th birthday of Crown Princess Victoria.  We ate lunch on the ground just outside the Palace.  Lars and I had Swedish meatballs with boiled potatoes, lingonberries, and picked cucumbers.  Karl had salmon, and Maude had halloumi.  It was a beautiful day to sit outside and eat.

     Drottningholm Palace was built beginning in the late 1600s. It is definitely an example of "keeping up with the Jones' ".  The first thing you see upon entering the palace is a hallway leading to the formal gardens.  It was been painted with a distorted perspective and has a sloping floor, giving the illusion of a long hallway, when in fact it was not nearly so long.  A series of doors leads leads through another hallway...or do they?

      You then notice the lovely marble walls and banisters.  But wait!  They're painted wood or stone!  All throughout the palace there are beautiful examples of this Trompe l'oeil painting.  I went a little crazy with the photos but it was really amazing. Unfortunately we didn't have time to go to the Chinese Pavilion or the Court Theater.  That will have to wait for another trip.

     After the boat ride back to central Stockholm we walked through Gamla Stan (the old city) and into Södermalm, a large island part of Stockholm.  By this time it was raining and we all were pretty wet.  Södermalm was a working class part of Stockholm but now it's pretty trendy.  We found a restaurant with a dry table under an umbrella and had a very nice dinner.  Lars is very knowledgeable about Swedish and European history so it was great to have him show us around Stockholm.

     After dinner we headed back to the apartment.  Lars and Maude had to drive back to Blidö so we didn't want to be back late.  Did you know that a word for island in Swedish is 'ö' ?  That's why so many islands in Sweden end in ö.  I forgot to mention that in my post about Blidö.

     After Maude and Lars left we watched a special program on TV in honor of Crown Princess Victoria's birthday.

     So lots of photos today.  I tried to give them all titles.  Sorry they're not better organized.  I can only do so much on this tablet.

Tuesday, July 14, 2015

Monday July 13th

    Today was a long day.  We were up by 6:15 to leave the apartment by 7:00. Saying goodbye to Riina was hard but we had a wonderful week with her and made many good memories.  We drove to the Oulu airport and returned the rental car.  Karl stopped for a coffee and roll once inside the airport.  We then had about an hour to wait for our plane after clearing security. You don't have to take off your shoes in Europe, but everything else seems about the same.

     Our flight to Helsinki on Finnair was fine.  Forty five minutes flying time.  We had about four hours to kill in Helsinki before our flight to Stockholm so we wandered around. I found the Helsinki Airport Book Swap!  This awesome place is where you can take a book if you need something to read or leave a book if you have one to get rid of. I was bummed because I finished my book on day 3 of the trip and would have loved to have left it, but I'd left it at the apartment in Stockholm.  I saw books in Finnish, Swedish, English, Chinese, and German.

     We stopped at a cafe and bought an early lunch.  I had a tomato mozzarella panini.  We took advantage of the free WiFi.  At boarding time we went to our gate and boarded a bus to take us out onto the tarmac.  There seem to be too few gates so we had to board using steps sine distance away from the terminal.  The flight from Helsinki to Stockholm was also about 45 minutes flying time.  We landed a few minutes early.  Sweden is an hour behind Finland so we gained an hour.

     Before I start talking about Stockholm here are some final thoughts on Finland:

The country of Finland has a population of 5.4 million, about 3 million less than that of New York City!

Most everyone my age or younger speaks some English.  In general the young people speak better English than those my age.

I have nothing but good things to say about the Finnish people.  Generous, helpful, polite, friendly.

There were some beggars in Helsinki around the train station but far fewer than in Stockholm.  They appear to be Roma (what we used to call gypsies).

Finland is very clean and the roads seem to be in good repair.

Wood. There's lots of wood. Cabinetry, doors and floors in our hotel rooms and wall panels in the Helsinki Airport were a nice, stained wood.  Not surprising in a country where the majority of the land area is forested.

In Helsinki, especially, I sometimes felt a Soviet or Easten influence to the architecture.  Lars told me that during the Cold War, movie filming portraying the Soviet Union often took place in Helsinki for the reason that the Soviet Union wouldn't allow the filming.

     So we arrived back in Stockholm around 2 p.m.and took the bus back to central Stockholm.  We then walked to a main square to pick up our Stockholm Cards.  We paid about $135 each for these cards and they will allow us 5 days of unlimited public transportation and entry into most of Stockholm's main tourist attractions.  We then walked into the main subway station in downtown Stockholm, T-Centralen, which was adjacent to the place we picked up the cards.  The apartment we're staying at is near the Telefonplan subway stop, a journey of 8 stops and 15 minutes.

     The apartment we're staying in was built in 1939 as housing for the employees of the Swedish electronics company, Ericsson.  The old factory and offices are located across the street from the subway station.  Ericsson moved out about 10 years ago and the complex is now occupied by an arts and design university.   The apartment itself is cute.  There's a little foyer upon entering, a small bedroom to the right, a nice living room straight ahead, and a kitchen, dining area, and bathroom to the left.  It's probably small by today's standards, but in 1939 was almost luxurious because of the indoor plumbing and bathroom!   I haven't timed it, but it'd guess it's less than a 7 minute walk to the subway. We pass a bank, grocery,  pharmacy, public library, and a restaurant on the way.  The neighborhood is very quiet and probably on its way to becoming trendy.

     We dropped our luggage off at the apartment then headed to the neighborhood of Mälerhöjden, where Karl lived as a 10 year old boy when his dad was on sabbatical in the early 1970s.  He was able to locate the house he lived in and the school he attended.  We then returned to central Stockholm for dinner.

     Karl and I were pretty hungry by this time so we stopped at a steak and barbecue restaurant.  I had chicken and Karl had fish. Large American style meal--salad, cole slaw, ear of corn, breadstick, baked potato.  We got back to the apartment around 9 p.m.

It wasn't a very photographic day, but here are the pics.

Sunday July 12th, Rovaniemi

     This was a day I was anxiously waiting for...the trip to the Arctic Circle!  I've always been interested in geography and spent hours as a child playing with a globe. Years later when I learned there was a physical marker for the Arctic Circle, I knew I had to go there.  So today was my special day!

     Tuula picked us up at the apartment and we drove to Ella's apartment, where we met Hese.  Ella's boyfriend Toni dog-sat the puppy for Tuula and Hese while we were gone.  We had to take 2 cars because there were 6 of us on the trip to Rovaniemi--Tuula, Hese, Ella, Riina, Karl and me.  The driving was split by the Finns and we rotated who sat in which car so we could talk with everyone.  We stopped for a snack on the way up there at a truck stop type place.

     The trip to Rovaniemi took about 3 hours.  It's located about 220 km, or 140 miles northeast of Oulu.   Rovaniemi is a small city in northern Finland and it is the capital of Lapland.  It is also the home of Santa Claus, who lives at Santa Claus Village, a few miles north of Rovaniemi.  Santa Claus Village is a popular tourist place.  We saw license plates from Finland, Sweden, Switzerland, Norway, Germany and Russia, to name a few. Note to those who may want to visit...before arriving at Santa Claus Village, you will pass Santa Park.  Tuula says this is the fake Santa. ;-)

     The Arctic Circle is marked by a heavy white line running through the Santa Claus Village. (And yes, I realize the Arctic circle 'moves' so this is not exactly the true geographical location, but I am trying to ignore that fact).  ARCTIC CIRCLE is printed on the pavement in several languages and it is popular to have your photo taken.

     We then entered the building where Santa was and entered a scene reminiscent of an attraction at Disney World--a path winding through various scenes. This one was dark and we joked about zombie elves jumping out to scare us because we got the haunted house vibe.  When we finally made it to the door guarded by Santa's helper, we were only the third party in line.  The young woman working as the gatekeeper was excellent in her job.  She was great with the children and entertaining.  Her English was excellent, and I'm guessing she can speak several other languages, too.

     We were ushered in to Santa's chamber and Karl and I sat on either side of him.  Riina's family filled in behind and beside us.  Santa talked to us for several minutes and then we had our photo taken.  This entire encounter was videotaped as well.    Santa told us that they were having the coolest summer since 1962.  The high temperature today was 17 C, or about 62 F.

     After our encounter with Santa we walked around the Marimekko and iittala shops, then several of the little souvenir shops. I sent a couple of postcards too.  I bought a certificate to commemorate my Arctic Circle visit, then we left the Village to find some lunch.  We ended up in downtown Rovaniemi at a kebab, pizza, and burger restaurant.  Five if us ordered pizza and Karl ordered a kebab wrap.  Well, this place was all about super-sizing their portions. Karl's kebab wrap could've fed 3 or 4 people, and the rest of us each ended up with a personal 14" or maybe even 16" pizza. It was ridiculous.  Plus the salad bar was included, but it isn't much like what Americans think of a salad bar.  If I remember correctly the options here were vinegar slaw, green olives, fruit cocktail, and there were two other items... we had a salad bar at another Finnish restaurant and that one at least had lettuce, but was also minimal.

     So after stuffing ourselves we drove to Oulu, stopping for packaged ice cream bars at the travel plaza after 1 1/2 hours of driving.  Tuula's sister Tarja was expecting us for a light supper.  Tarja visited us when Riina was living with us, so we'd met her before. When we got to the apartment, Aija and Viivi were there already.  Toni, who lives in the adjacent apartment with Riina's sister, Ella, came over with the puppy.  Tarja had made chicken, fish, and a nice tossed salad that really hit the spot.  It was nice to see Tarja again, and we enjoyed chatting.  We only stayed maybe an hour or so because we had to pack and get up early to leave for Stockholm.  Ella took a photo of Riina, Karl and me before we left.  It will appear in a later Flickr album when I get the photos from Riina and Karl.  The photos from today are here.

Monday, July 13, 2015

Saturday July 11th Oulu

     This was an 'eat all day' day. Not complaining!

     This was the first night I think I was affected by the lack of 'night'.  I just didn't feel like it was bedtime and had trouble unwinding.  I took a photo from the window at 11 p.m., midnight, 1 a.m., 2 a.m., and 3 a.m.  I'll put them together for a comparison sometime, but it seemed lighter at 3 a.m. than 11 p.m. just checked--sunset was 11:47 p.m. and sunrise was 3:01 a.m.

     So, we were out of the apartment around 9 this morning when we meet Riina's parents and middle sister at the Oulu City Market.  We walked along the waterfront to get to the market square. The Market building reminded me of the Indianapolis City Market, but on a smaller scale.  We ate breakfast from a little coffee shop in the market, then Tuula bought fish from a vendor inside the building and potatoes from a vendor outside the building.  Hese and Tuula left and Riina, Ella, Karl and I walked through the shopping district to return to the apartment.  I was suffering from my lack of sleep so I wanted to rest for a couple of hours before eating my way through the rest of the day.  Karl, Riina, and Ella walked around Oulu some more.

     Soon it was time to go to Riina's grandparents' house in Oulu for lunch.  (Not the grandparents whose apartment we are using).  Riina's grandparents were anxious to meet Karl and me.  They did not speak English because it was not taught in their schools.  Riina or her dad acted as a translator.  Tuula and her mother had spent the morning preparing a delicious lunch .  There was raw fish, pan fried chicken, boiled new potatoes, tossed salad and rye bread.  Then we had berry soup as a pre-dessert, I guess.  It was very good...strawberries, blueberries and red currants cooked with sugar.  It was still warm and we ate it with a vanilla cream and a little additional sugar. After our berry soup we had dessert--a baked blueberry pie-ish thing, and coffee.  After dessert we went out in the garden. Riina's grandma is very proud of her beautiful yard.   Ella took a photo of Karl and me with Riina and her parents.

     We said our goodbyes, then Riina took us to an open-air museum near Oulu.  It's called Turkansaari.  It has old buildings from that area of Finland that have been moved there and restored.  Hese joined us there.  We spent about 1 1/2 hours there, then it was time to go to Tyrnävä for dinner.  (See, I told you we ate all day!)  We had grilled sausages and Finnish pancakes with jam and whipped cream.  Several friends of the family joined us for this cookout.  It was fun, but rather chilly.  We went back to Oulu and went to bed.  It takes about 40 minutes to drive from Tyrnävä to Oulu.

     Photos are here.